with a direct jump to starter from battery + post (use 12 ga wire) that bypasses all safety and security systems. If starter works correctly then there is a problem between the starter and the ignition. Note checking starter on a bench at a shop will not always reveal a bad unit since load they use is not the same as starter under flywheel load, been there done that. The starter relay is on the driver side wheel well at the back of the tire in a removable panel. Relays are easy to check with a VOM but that continuity test is not always last word. Have had relays check OK but internal contacts fail under current load. If you replace this relay only use an OEM unit from Nissan for correct fit into harness (how do I know this?). There is also a safety switch at the clutch pedal that must be depressed (clutch to floor) to activate the start system. You also have a theft security switch in the system, not sure where never had to deal with that. There could be a problem in the ignition switch? As far as the double start success you have?? The dieing after start sounds like a fuel issue. Also check the alternator for proper output with accessories on. The static reading on the batt should be about 12.7v and pull about 14.5v when running.
ZUL8TR in Orlando,FL |